Last month I had the pleasure of visiting Richard Gelding to start the process of making of a Canali Su-Misura suit (Made-to-Measure). Richard Gelding is a London based menswear store located on 27 North Audley Street in Mayfair. Together the team of specialists combine over 100 years of expertise together. The store is furthermore a part of the online retail-portal, Baltzar, offering classic menswear with contemporary influences.
Arriving at the shop I was welcomed by Wilhelm, GM at the store and also one of the founders of Baltzar.com. We first had a chat over a cup of coffee discussing different suit designs, silhouettes and concepts to attain a rough idea of what I was looking to have made. I explained that I for a while had been wanting a more traditionally-cut classic navy suit made, as my current option has a narrow and slim silhouette that I am slowly maturing from.
Although Canali today indulges in everything from sportswear to unconstructed light stretch suits, their heritage and identity lays in the timeless and classic design of a “milanese cut” suit. Which in short means a structured shoulder, wide lapel, low button stance and closed quarter. Hence, the perfect option for my desire to make a truly classic suit.
After a great chat about tailoring I was excited to get started with the suit. The next step of my appointment was to have my measurements taken. I tried on different sizes and models of jackets and trousers to find the best fitting master garment for my body type to have as a starting point. Wilhelm then measured me up to adapt the pattern which is created uniquely for me to my body and fit preferences.
As I am quite tall we needed to lengthen the jacket to achieve the correct proportions, we also narrowed the shoulders a little bit since a constructed shoulder that us on the wide side, easily looks very old-school and too wide. Since I wanted double pleats for my trousers we went with a wider fitting trousers model, which we then took in in the waist and bottom, still allowing the drape to come through on the front of the trousers.
After having done the measurements is was time for me to choose the fabric and design options. I opted for a navy 100% Lana Super 150’S cloth with quite a lot of texture and a so called dry handle (meaning it is matte and dry rather than shiny and silky-smooth). The material is a super fine wool weave characterised by it’s crease-resistance and lightness. For lining I went with a suitable matching blue tone from the Canali Made-to-measure exclusive collection (although there was several colourful options as well.) To ad some character to the otherwise plain navy suit I paired the it with dark brown horn buttons, went with a peak lapel, straight flap pockets with a ticket pocket and double pleated trousers with a hight waist and side adjusters.
Wilhelm noted my measurements and style choices to sent it off to Canali’s production in Italy. The suit will there get a unique pattern which the cloth is cut from. The process there after requires several man made elements and is carefully manufactured before sent to London 4 weeks later. The final fitting of the garment is made in the store where Richard Gelding’s in-house tailor will do the finishing of the trousers length and other possible small alterations.