A place where old meets new. The City of London is an architectural time capsule characterised by clashes of medieval landmarks, Victorian arches and modern skyscrapers.
The Gieves & Hawkes spring / summer 19 collection celebrates the tailoring house’s roots at No 1 Savile Row. An address that signifies both the height of sartorial elegance and the spirit of British adventure being the former home of The Royal Geographical Society. The references are brought to life throughout the collection’s tailoring with tropical patterns, earthy tones and functional fabrics.
I put together 3 of the season’s tailoring looks, starting with;
A striking yet sophisticated business look; this ocean blue double-breasted suit screams power with its wide-cut lapel and dark windowpane check. Cut from an English woven lightweight wool makes it perfect for the warmer days in the office, tie off and its daring enough for the night. Here styled with a floral patterned silk and a linen handkerchief.
Earthy tones are my personal favourites for the spring and summer. They are easy to mix & match and makes a more casual look. I broke up this classic-cut dark green suit with a striped linen shirt and a brown tie.
Lightweight tailoring is the best tool to stay sharp in the city heat. This navy and white puppytooth suit is cut from an open-weave fresco cloth designed to breathe. Here styled with a striped silk/linen tie and tropically patterned handkerchief.
It has been a great pleasure attending this year’s SIHH, the event in every watch professional’s
diary, bringing makers and admirers of beautiful timepieces together to
discover the latest collections and new trends. I was invited by Vacheron Constantin to
join them in Geneva for this year’s expo to explore the Maison’s latest novelties.
My personal highlights of this year’s launch…
The new Overseas Collection presents the collection’s first self-winding tourbillon movement which is revealed through it’s beautiful tourbillon cage. Combining the distinctive style of Overseas with the elegance of a majestic blue dial makes it a perfect companion of a true globetrotter.
The Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar shows that Vacheron Constantin does not rest on it’s laurels. This timepiece features a system (patent pending) that allows the wearer to switch from 5 Hz frequency (active mode) to a 1.2 Hz frequency (standby mode). Meaning that the originally stated 4-day power reserve (when active) is extended to 65 days (in standby mode).
The Les Cabinotiers collection honours the name given to the prestigious and most skilled watchmakers, cabinotiers. The watches in the collection are highly complicated and unique timepieces that were historically only made by bespoke order, but now form a whole department on the Maison’s first floor in Geneva.
The crown jewel of this new collection is inspired by the legend of the phoenix. The myth of the bird that rises from its own fiery ashes which represents the immortality of the Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Phoenix which packs no less than 15 complications into its meticulously engraved, 47mm rose gold case.
The power of a scent is not to be underestimated; a waft of the right perfume can take a your personal style to a new level in seconds. However, selecting the right fragrance for the right occasion is crucial for it’s appreciation. Your choice of fragrance should reflect your personality and whether you are in the boardroom, taking time off or going out.
With head notes of fresh Juniper berries (also used in Gin), the fragrance Juniper Sling brings a tribute to the roaring 1920s. Think crisp evening-elegance. It first teases with aromatic Angelica (root and seed). The heart next races to the vitality of cinnamon, pepper and cardamon. Orris creates a smooth melody of softer cherry-woods. Notes of leather, brandy – a liqorous, vigorous base – hit the spot.
Lothair, a fragrance as novel as the sight of land on the horizon, and at the same time as reassuring as – tea.
Whether at sail on the High Seas or at home in one’s private London Club, refreshments are essential. The British penchant for gin and tea is renowned and well-known. From notes of a fresh gin-grapefruit tonic, it settles into a fig and black-tea signature. The scent is progressively smooth with hints of magnolia and lavender. Ultimately it turns daring and dark with trials of debonair woods (cedarwood, wenge).
The night fragrance, Endymion Concentre. Named after Endymion, Zeus’s most handsome son. A Greek God in a perpetual slumber, forever young. He was in the night visited by Luna, his divine consort, she who loved him so.
The fragrance reflects passion, love and loyalty. The perfect companion for the easy-going gentleman. The scent is based on elegant hues of geranium, lavender and mandarin, nutmeg, resins and suede. A demi-lune, a semi-oriental.
A few months back, I shared the experience of measuring up my Canali Su Misura (Made-to-Measure) suit, via appointment at the London menswear shop – Richard Gelding part of baltzar.com. I was delighted to receive a message 4 weeks later telling me that my suit had made it over from Italy and landed in London.
I returned to the store for a final fitting, excited to see the result of the various changes and choices done when ordering. I was instantly pleased to see the soft textures and deep blue colour of the beautiful fabric. I had already seen the fabric on the sample, but when it unfolds in front of you as a full suit it always becomes more true to its colour and slightly lighter than on a small sample piece. Something which had been pointed out and highlighted to me during the process of choosing.
Next up was trying on the suit. By now having had several pieces made, by routine I scanned the suit for potential need of finishing touches. I was happy to conclude that the seam of the structured shoulder fit perfectly on the edge of my shoulder bone, the sleeve length was sublime and it had a very nice v-shape on my waist. Looking at the trousers; the waist fitted nicely on my hips and the drape was just impeccable, potentially I am going to let out the waist just a fraction, something which always has to be considered a possibility due to the nature of a waist circumference. The trousers came unfinished, meaning that the length would be adjusted and altered by Richard Gelding’s in-house tailor. Due to how the rest of the trousers is fitting the final length may vary slightly, since we did quite a lot of changes in the waist, seat and leg area, it is the safer option to finish the trousers when everything else is in place; also I am quite particular about the length and tend to have slightly different length depending on the characteristics off the trousers.
Another important detail on the trousers are the double reverse pleats, these folds of fabric adds flexibility to the front of the trousers as it allows to expand slightly when sitting down, as well as an aesthetically pleasing effect of drape to the trouser legs.
The final result came out very satisfying. We strived to make a classic formal lounge suit the Milanese way (the Canali way). The No.1 suit in a man’s wardrobe should be a classic dark navy suit and this we definitely achieved. I am particularly happy with all the visible design attributes of the suit. Due to the plain nature of the fabric we added quite a few details to make sure if still felt exciting and distinguished, which I think really worked out well. The structured shoulder together with the peak lapel giving the suit a powerful silhouette. The ticket pocket disrupting the otherwise completely symmetrical design.
The side adjuster and buttons for braces is eliminating the need of belt loops, which helps enhance the clean look of the waistline of the suit. The trousers was finished with a turn-up to highlight the short but perfect finishing of the trousers.
Overall my interaction with the store Richard Gelding has indeed been happy and pleasant experience, a good start to a happy relation. Their combination of relaxed, yet knowledgeable approach makes shopping easy and enjoyable.
An old saying says “You can tell a gentleman by his shoes” and it has been stuck in my head ever since I first heard it. As much as it might not be right, I feel there is a slight of truth to the words. Having an eye for details such as your shoes, shows a gentleman’s ability to take care of the things he loves. Wearing a well polished pair of shoes can make a great first impression, whether that be professionally or personally. Whilst a sloppy shoe may give the impression that you have come unprepared and do not think highly of yourself nor the person you are meeting.
Two classic pairs of shoes that I have always found essential for any gentleman is a quality pair of Oxfords and an elegant pair of loafers. These two styles will have you covered for practically all smart-casual occasions as well as professional dress codes.
The Oxford shoe The Oxford, is a simple pair of shoes which is mostly considered as a formal style choice. It is named after the University of Oxford and characterised by it’s shoelace eyelets that are attached under the vamp, a feature termed “closed lacing”.
There are two main variations of the Oxford shoe; The Classic Oxford which is a basic style without perforations (as seen on the left image above) and The Brogue which is defined by it’s perforations (seen on the right image above).
The Loafer The Loafer, also called “the slip-on”, is the epitome of “the lazy shoe”. Having no laces, there is no need to bend over or to use a shoe horn to put one the shoe, before walking out of the door in the morning. There are numerous different types of loafers. My two personal favourites are The Penny Loafer and The Tassel Loafer.
The Penny Loafer, as we know it today, was first introduced by shoe company G.H.Bass in 1936. Their design included a distinctive strip of leather (the saddle) of the shoe with a diamond-shaped cut-out. Their version of the loafer was named Weejuns (to sound like Norwegians – a nod to the Norwegian roots of the shoe). Weejuns became very popular in America, especially among the students at The Ivy League Collage in the 1950s, who coined the term Penny Loafer. A legend says that, in the 1930s, two pennies were sufficient to make an emergency telephone call. Regardless, the name stuck, and the G.H.Bass penny loafer has achieved the status of a classic.
The Tassel Loafer says to originate from after the end of the World War II. While in Europe, an American actor named Paul Lukas acquired a pair of oxfords with little tassels at the end of the laces. When he returned to America, he took them to several shoemakers and asked them to make something similar. Not satisfied, Paul Lukas kept trying to find a shoemaker that could meet his demand. The request made it’s way to the Alden Shoe Company. The then President of Alden, Arthur Tarlow Sr., Came up with a slip-on pattern keeping the leather lace and tassel as a decoration. The Alden Shoe Co., realizing the potential of the shoe, continued to experiment with the design, finally launching it in 1950. The Tassel Loafer, as it became to be called, was a success, and was especially in popular among bankers and lawyers in the late 90’s/early 00’s.
Not long ago, I had my first appointment at Tailor Made London’s Belgravia showroom. A 10 year-old London born business, offering an untraditional tailoring service with a yet traditional aesthetic.
The first step of my appointment was a talk with the tailor James, with whom I discussed what had in mind for my spring / summer suit. I explained that I like earthy tones and wanted a very lightweight cloth to stay cool on warm summer days.
Together we went through Tailor Made London’s spring / summer fabrics and I found a beautiful green cloth made from a mix of linen, wool and silk. A blend that makes a very lightweight and breathable cloth while still keeping a good shape compared to a very easily creasing 100% linen cloth. I paired the green with a bold paisley lining and dark brown horn buttons.
The next step was to enter their 3D body scanner to have my measurements taken. From my 3D body scan they are able create a unique suit pattern which they afterwards adjust to my fit preference by trying on different samples.
My first appointment was now over and my measurements and design choices were sent off to their production in Italy where the suit is cut and put together. It takes an average off 4-6 weeks from your appointment in London until the suit is delivered in store.
4 weeks later I was notified that my suit was in store and it was time for my 2nd appointment. When I came in, I put on the suit and it overall looked really great. I was pleasantly surprised about the result and admitted to the tailor Mickey, that I at first was quite sceptical towards the 3D scanning concept as I never heard about it nor tried it before. Only minor tweaks had to be made, such as letting out the jacket waist and a slight shaping of the trouser seat.
After the alterations were made the suit fit perfectly to my preference. I was particularly astound by the suits’ cut: an unconstructed shoulder, a wide notch lapel and a high waisted trouser with double pleats and 2 inch turn-ups.
I here wore the suit jacket with a light brown pair of linen trousers at Pitti Uomo in Florence, Italy. An example of how it’s possible to mix and match tailoring for more casual occasions and to achieve several looks form the same suit. The Italian sun was strong in June but the unlined jacket stood the test and did very well in the warm climate.
Last month I had the pleasure of visiting Richard Gelding to start the process of making of a Canali Su-Misura suit (Made-to-Measure). Richard Gelding is a London based menswear store located on 27 North Audley Street in Mayfair. Together the team of specialists combine over 100 years of expertise together. The store is furthermore a part of the online retail-portal, Baltzar, offering classic menswear with contemporary influences.
Arriving at the shop I was welcomed by Wilhelm, GM at the store and also one of the founders of Baltzar.com. We first had a chat over a cup of coffee discussing different suit designs, silhouettes and concepts to attain a rough idea of what I was looking to have made. I explained that I for a while had been wanting a more traditionally-cut classic navy suit made, as my current option has a narrow and slim silhouette that I am slowly maturing from.
Although Canali today indulges in everything from sportswear to unconstructed light stretch suits, their heritage and identity lays in the timeless and classic design of a “milanese cut” suit. Which in short means a structured shoulder, wide lapel, low button stance and closed quarter. Hence, the perfect option for my desire to make a truly classic suit.
After a great chat about tailoring I was excited to get started with the suit. The next step of my appointment was to have my measurements taken. I tried on different sizes and models of jackets and trousers to find the best fitting master garment for my body type to have as a starting point. Wilhelm then measured me up to adapt the pattern which is created uniquely for me to my body and fit preferences.
As I am quite tall we needed to lengthen the jacket to achieve the correct proportions, we also narrowed the shoulders a little bit since a constructed shoulder that us on the wide side, easily looks very old-school and too wide. Since I wanted double pleats for my trousers we went with a wider fitting trousers model, which we then took in in the waist and bottom, still allowing the drape to come through on the front of the trousers.
After having done the measurements is was time for me to choose the fabric and design options. I opted for a navy 100% Lana Super 150’S cloth with quite a lot of texture and a so called dry handle (meaning it is matte and dry rather than shiny and silky-smooth). The material is a super fine wool weave characterised by it’s crease-resistance and lightness. For lining I went with a suitable matching blue tone from the Canali Made-to-measure exclusive collection (although there was several colourful options as well.) To ad some character to the otherwise plain navy suit I paired the it with dark brown horn buttons, went with a peak lapel, straight flap pockets with a ticket pocket and double pleated trousers with a hight waist and side adjusters.
Wilhelm noted my measurements and style choices to sent it off to Canali’s production in Italy. The suit will there get a unique pattern which the cloth is cut from. The process there after requires several man made elements and is carefully manufactured before sent to London 4 weeks later. The final fitting of the garment is made in the store where Richard Gelding’s in-house tailor will do the finishing of the trousers length and other possible small alterations.
Pitti Uomo is one of the world’s most important platforms for menswear and accessories. The exhibition is held two times a year in Florence, at the Fortezza da Basso. The first edition of Pitti Uomo was held in September 1972 with an objective to promote Italian designers and brands. Today the exibition is internationally reconigsed showcasing more than 1,200 menswear brands from all around the world.
I went to visit the exhibition for the first time to soak in inspiration, network with industry people and meet with current and future business partners. When I first entered the exhibition space I was instantly overwhelmed by the size of the space and the number of people attending, but at the same time very impressed by the many well tailored suits and amount of effort put into every attendee’s outfit.
I first went to visit the booth of the Swedish brand Eton Shirts. I have been wearing their shirts for about 6 months now and I was excited to finally meet the people behind the brand. I had the kind Karin from their PR and events team helping me going through their coming spring summer 19 collection and I also had the pleasure of meeting their Italian design manager Nicoletta Grazioli.
After finishing my visit at Eton Shirts I walked past the booth of one my favourite sunglasses brands, The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear. The brand is fairly recent and is founded by the Italian menswear blogger and digital influencer, Fabio Attanasio. I took the opportunity to try on the different models and noted down my favourites as I always find it hard to order sunglasses online without trying them on.
My final visit was to the booth of the Spanish shoe brand, Carmina Shoemaker. Carmina is a family run business on 6th generation founded in Majorca in 1866 and their name is highly respected by every footwear enthusiasts I’ve ever met. Their shoes are absolutely stunning and of an extraordinary softness and comfort with sturdy welts and shapely lasts.
I had the honour of meeting two of the Carmina family members who told me more about the brand’s history and gave me a detailed tour through their various models and made-to-order service.
My outfit on the 1st day of Pitti Uomo 94:
On the first day of the exhibition I wore a green jacket made in a wool, linen & silk Solbiati cloth by Tailor Made London. I paired the the jacket with a white high collar shirt by Eton Shirts, a navy/grey silk tie by Cosetore and a light brown pair of linen & cotton trousers. I finished off the outfit with a brown pair of suede penny loafers by Carmina Shoemaker.
My outfit on th 2nd day of Pitti Uomo 94:
For my 2nd day’s outfit I went with a slightly more bold brown check jacket in a cotton, linen & silk cloth by Solbiati. I paired it with a white Eton shirt, a navy paisley tie from Sera Fine Silk and a light brown pair of linen & cotton trousers. For footwear I wore a brown pair of calf skin tassel loafers by Carmina Shoemaker and on this particularly warm day a panama hat was ideal.
Visiting Pitti Uomo for the first time was a truly amazing experience. I had the pleasure of connecting with many likeminded menswear enthusiasts as well as talented artisans and designers from all over the world. I am already excited to be back in Florence for Pitti Uomo 95 in January 2019.
With London being one of the world’s fashion capitals the British Fashion Council hosted the now 7th season of London Fashion Week Men’s (LFWM). LFWM is here to showcase the work of the best British designers over 4 days with a packed schedule of catwalk shows, presentations and events.
Being passionated about menswear and style I joined in for another season to connect with likeminded creatives and soak in inspiration. In occasion of London Fashion Week Men’s I worked with a hand full of tailors and menswear brands to prepare 4 outfits.
On day 1 of London Fashion Week Men’s I attended a preview of Kirk Originals’ new collection. They showcased their Spring Summer 19 Made in England Sunglasses in the Private White store in Mayfair. I wore a navy plain jacket in a Pure Wool Traveler fabric by Lanificio Cerruti, a white button down shirt by Eton Shirts, a brown knitted tie, a waistcoat in a cotton, linen & wool fabric by Solbiati and a light brown pair of linen & cotton trousers.
Outfit 2 :
Day 2 was the first official day of the fashion shows and I had a busy schedule of shows, events and presentations. I attended showcases by designers such as Oliver Spencer, Edward Crutchley and St. James London featuring New & Lingwood, John Smedley and many more.
With green being the colour of the season I went for a two-piece suit in a beautiful plain green wool, linen and silk fabric by Solbiati. I had the suit made by Tailor Made London’s bespoke service and it has details such as a wide notch lapel, an unconstructed shoulder and a high waisted pair of trousers with double reverse pleats. I paired the suit with a white high collar shirt by Eton Shirts, a navy paisley tie by Serà Fine Silk, navy paisley silk braces by Turnbull & Asser and brown suede penny loafers by Carmina Shoemaker. Completing my outfit, I wore a City Trilby hat in rabbit fur by Laird Hatters and a pair of Esso sunglasses in tortoise by Emon Eyewear.
Day 3 was slightly more relaxed and I spend it going to a few events and shows with my dear friend Alistair Guy. For my 3rd look I was wearing garments from the Saville Row based tailor Alexandra Wood Bespoke. A burgundy double breasted blazer in a breathable mesh woollen fabric by Holland and Sherry, which was ideal for a warm summer day like this. I paired the blazer with a white pin collar shirt by Eton Shirts, a navy cotton silk tie and a light brown pair of trousers in a wool, linen & silk fabric woven by Huddersfield. I finished off the look with a brown pair of tassel loafers by Carmina Shoemaker and a pair of Cran Classic sunglasses from The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear.
My last day of London Fashion Week Men’s was all about the browns. For my final outfit I opted for a plain light brown jacket in a soft blend of Ferla silk and linen. I paired it with a white shirt, a brown knit tie, a light brown pocket square and a light brown pair of trousers in a linen & cotton fabric. I completed this final look with a brown pair of suede penny loafers by Carmina Shoemaker and an Alfred Panama hat by Laird Hatters.
It has been a whirlwind and busy 4 days of London Fashion Week Men’s but it’s been a wonderful time, I met some very interesting people and I’m already looking forward to the next season. But first, I’m off to the menswear tradeshow Pitti Uomo in Florence and Milan Fashion Week Men’s…