“You can tell a gentleman by his shoes” : The Oxford & Loafers

An old saying says “You can tell a gentleman by his shoes” and it has been stuck in my head ever since I first heard it. As much as it might not be right, I feel there is a slight of truth to the words. Having an eye for details such as your shoes, shows a gentleman’s ability to take care of the things he loves. Wearing a well polished pair of shoes can make a great first impression, whether that be professionally or personally. Whilst a sloppy shoe may give the impression that you have come unprepared and do not think highly of yourself nor the person you are meeting.

Two classic pairs of shoes that I have always found essential for any gentleman is a quality pair of Oxfords and an elegant pair of loafers. These two styles will have you covered for practically all smart-casual occasions as well as professional dress codes.

The Cap Toe Oxford in black calf skin by Carmina Shoemaker (Semi Brogue)

The Oxford shoe
The Oxford, is a simple pair of shoes which is mostly considered as a formal style choice. It is named after the University of Oxford and characterised by it’s shoelace eyelets that are attached under the vamp, a feature termed “closed lacing”.

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There are two main variations of the Oxford shoe; The Classic Oxford which is a basic style without perforations (as seen on the left image above) and The Brogue which is defined by it’s perforations (seen on the right image above).

Semi Brogue Oxford in brown calf skin by Carmina Shoemaker
Tassel Loafers in brown box-calf by Carmina Shoemaker

The Loafer
The Loafer, also called “the slip-on”, is the epitome of “the lazy shoe”. Having no laces, there is no need to bend over or to use a shoe horn to put one the shoe, before walking out of the door in the morning. There are numerous different types of loafers. My two personal favourites are The Penny Loafer and The Tassel Loafer.

Penny Loafer in brown suede by Carmina Shoemaker

The Penny Loafer, as we know it today, was first introduced by shoe company G.H.Bass in 1936. Their design included a distinctive strip of leather (the saddle) of the shoe with a diamond-shaped cut-out. Their version of the loafer was named Weejuns (to sound like Norwegians – a nod to the Norwegian roots of the shoe). Weejuns became very popular in America, especially among the students at The Ivy League Collage in the 1950s, who coined the term Penny Loafer. A legend says that, in the 1930s, two pennies were sufficient to make an emergency telephone call. Regardless, the name stuck, and the G.H.Bass penny loafer has achieved the status of a classic.

Tassel Loafers in brown box-calf by Carmina Shoemaker

The Tassel Loafer says to originate from after the end of the World War II. While in Europe, an American actor named Paul Lukas acquired a pair of oxfords with little tassels at the end of the laces. When he returned to America, he took them to several shoemakers and asked them to make something similar. Not satisfied, Paul Lukas kept trying to find a shoemaker that could meet his demand. The request made it’s way to the Alden Shoe Company. The then President of Alden, Arthur Tarlow Sr., Came up with a slip-on pattern keeping the leather lace and tassel as a decoration. The Alden Shoe Co., realizing the potential of the shoe, continued to experiment with the design, finally launching it in 1950. The Tassel Loafer, as it became to be called, was a success, and was especially in popular among bankers and lawyers in the late 90’s/early 00’s.

Yours sincerely, Mathias le Fèvre

www.carminashoemaker.com

@carminashoemaker

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My first Tailor Made London experience

Not long ago, I had my first appointment at Tailor Made London’s Belgravia showroom. A 10 year-old London born business, offering an untraditional tailoring service with a yet traditional aesthetic.

The first step of my appointment was a talk with the tailor James, with whom I discussed what had in mind for my spring / summer suit. I explained that I like earthy tones and wanted a very lightweight cloth to stay cool on warm summer days.

Together we went through Tailor Made London’s spring / summer fabrics and I found a beautiful green cloth made from a mix of linen, wool and silk. A blend that makes a very lightweight and breathable cloth while still keeping a good shape compared to a very easily creasing 100% linen cloth. I paired the green with a bold paisley lining and dark brown horn buttons.

The next step was to enter their 3D body scanner to have my measurements taken. From my 3D body scan they are able create a unique suit pattern which they afterwards adjust to my fit preference by trying on different samples.

My first appointment was now over and my measurements and design choices were sent off to their production in Italy where the suit is cut and put together. It takes an average off 4-6 weeks from your appointment in London until the suit is delivered in store.

4 weeks later I was notified that my suit was in store and it was time for my 2nd appointment. When I came in, I put on the suit and it overall looked really great. I was pleasantly surprised about the result and admitted to the tailor Mickey, that I at first was quite sceptical towards the 3D scanning concept as I never heard about it nor tried it before. Only minor tweaks had to be made, such as letting out the jacket waist and a slight shaping of the trouser seat.

mathias-le-fevre-ss19_london_fashion_week_mens_lfwm_wearing tailor made London bespoke suit in Solbiati cloth laird hatter Vacheron Constantin watch sera fine silk tie and Turnbull and asser braces.jpg

After the alterations were made the suit fit perfectly to my preference. I was particularly astound by the suits’ cut: an unconstructed shoulder, a wide notch lapel and a high waisted trouser with double pleats and 2 inch turn-ups.

pitti uomo 94 Florence Italy outfit style detail picture tailor made London green bespoke tailored jacket wool linen silk cloth Solbiati light brown linen cotton trauser silk tie mathias le Fevre carmina shoemaker suede brown penny loafer

I here wore the suit jacket with a light brown pair of linen trousers at Pitti Uomo in Florence, Italy. An example of how it’s possible to mix and match tailoring for more casual occasions and to achieve several looks form the same suit. The Italian sun was strong in June but the unlined jacket stood the test and did very well in the warm climate.

Yours sincerely, Mathias le Fèvre

www.tailormadelondon.com

@tailormadelondon

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Richard Gelding: The process of a Canali Made to Measure suit

Last month I had the pleasure of visiting Richard Gelding to start the process of making of a Canali Su-Misura suit (Made-to-Measure). Richard Gelding is a London based menswear store  located on 27 North Audley Street in Mayfair. Together the team of specialists combine over 100 years of expertise together. The store is furthermore a part of the online retail-portal, Baltzar, offering classic menswear with contemporary influences.

Arriving at the shop I was welcomed by Wilhelm, GM at the store and also one of the founders of Baltzar.com. We first had a chat over a cup of coffee discussing different suit designs, silhouettes and concepts to attain a rough idea of what I was looking to have made. I explained that I for a while had been wanting a more traditionally-cut classic navy suit made, as my current option has a narrow and slim silhouette that I am slowly maturing from.

Although Canali today indulges in everything from sportswear to unconstructed light stretch suits, their heritage and identity lays in the timeless and classic design of a “milanese cut” suit. Which in short means a structured shoulder, wide lapel, low button stance and closed quarter. Hence, the perfect option for my desire to make a truly classic suit.

After a great chat about tailoring I was excited to get started with the suit. The next step of my appointment was to have my measurements taken. I tried on different sizes and models of jackets and trousers to find the best fitting master garment for my body type to have as a starting point. Wilhelm then measured me up to adapt the pattern which is created uniquely for me to my body and fit preferences.

As I am quite tall we needed to lengthen the jacket to achieve the correct proportions, we also narrowed the shoulders a little bit since a constructed shoulder that us on the wide side, easily looks very old-school and too wide. Since I wanted double pleats for my trousers we went with a wider fitting trousers model, which we then took in in the waist and bottom, still allowing the drape to come through on the front of the trousers.

After having done the measurements is was time for me to choose the fabric and design options. I opted for a navy 100% Lana Super 150’S cloth with quite a lot of texture and a so called dry handle (meaning it is matte and dry rather than shiny and silky-smooth). The material is a super fine wool weave characterised by it’s crease-resistance and lightness. For lining I went with a suitable matching blue tone from the Canali Made-to-measure exclusive collection (although there was several colourful options as well.) To ad some character to the otherwise plain navy suit I paired the it with dark brown horn buttons, went with a peak lapel, straight flap pockets with a ticket pocket and double pleated trousers with a hight waist and side adjusters.

Wilhelm noted my measurements and style choices to sent it off to Canali’s production in Italy. The suit will there get a unique pattern which the cloth is cut from. The process there after requires several man made elements and is carefully manufactured before sent to London 4 weeks later. The final fitting of the garment is made in the store where Richard Gelding’s in-house tailor will do the finishing of the trousers length and other possible small alterations.

www.geldingmenswear.co.uk  / www.baltzar.com

@richardgelding / @worldofbaltzar

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Visiting Pitti Uomo 94 in Florence, Italy

mathias le Fevre pitti uomo 94 street style gentleman elegant brown check jacket white Eton shirt navy paisley wool tie sera fine silk light brown trouser Alfred Panama hat laird hatters carmina shoemaker calf leather tassel loafers
Ph: @cutsforhim

Pitti Uomo is one of the world’s most important platforms for menswear and accessories. The exhibition is held two times a year in Florence, at the Fortezza da Basso. The first edition of Pitti Uomo was held in September 1972 with an objective to promote Italian designers and brands. Today the exibition is internationally reconigsed showcasing more than 1,200 menswear brands from all around the world.

Ph: @thestoryalist
Ph: @thestoryalist

I went to visit the exhibition for the first time to soak in inspiration, network with industry people and meet with current and future business partners. When I first entered the exhibition space I was instantly overwhelmed by the size of the space and the number of people attending, but at the same time very impressed by the many well tailored suits and amount of effort put into every attendee’s outfit.

Ph: @sebastianmcfox
Ph: @ciinderellab

I first went to visit the booth of the Swedish brand Eton Shirts. I have been wearing their shirts for about 6 months now and I was excited to finally meet the people behind the brand. I had the kind Karin from their PR and events team helping me going through their coming spring summer 19 collection and I also had the pleasure of meeting their Italian design manager Nicoletta Grazioli.

Ph: @ciinderellab
Ph: @ciinderellab

After finishing my visit at Eton Shirts I walked past the booth of one my favourite sunglasses brands, The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear. The brand is fairly recent and is founded by the Italian menswear blogger and digital influencer, Fabio Attanasio. I took the opportunity to try on the different models and noted down my favourites as I always find it hard to order sunglasses online without trying them on.

Ph: @ciinderellab
The bespoke dudes eyewear sunglasses mathias le Fevre writer donegal tortoise clear bottle green
The bespoke dudes eyewear pitti uomo 94 sunglasses mathias le Fevre writer cran classic
Ph: @ciinderellab
Ph: @ciinderellab

My final visit was to the booth of the Spanish shoe brand, Carmina Shoemaker. Carmina is a family run business on 6th generation founded in Majorca in 1866 and their name is highly respected by every footwear enthusiasts I’ve ever met. Their shoes are absolutely stunning and of an extraordinary softness and comfort with sturdy welts and shapely lasts.

Ph: @ciinderellab

I had the honour of meeting two of the Carmina family members who told me more about the brand’s history and gave me a detailed tour through their various models and made-to-order service.

My outfit on the 1st day of Pitti Uomo 94:

Ph: @ciinderellab

On the first day of the exhibition I wore a green jacket made in a wool, linen & silk Solbiati cloth by Tailor Made London. I paired the the jacket with a white high collar shirt by Eton Shirts, a navy/grey silk tie by Cosetore and a light brown pair of linen & cotton trousers. I finished off the outfit with a brown pair of suede penny loafers by Carmina Shoemaker.

Ph: @ciinderellab

My outfit on th 2nd day of Pitti Uomo 94:

mathias le Fevre pitti uomo 94 street style gentleman elegant brown check jacket white Eton shirt navy paisley wool tie sera fine silk light brown trouser Alfred Panama hat laird hatters carmina shoemaker calf leather tassel loafers
mathias le Fevre pitti uomo 94 street style gentleman elegant brown check jacket white Eton shirt navy paisley wool tie sera fine silk light brown trouser Alfred Panama hat laird hatters

For my 2nd day’s outfit I went with a slightly more bold brown check jacket in a cotton, linen & silk cloth by Solbiati. I paired it with a white Eton shirt, a navy paisley tie from Sera Fine Silk and a light brown pair of linen & cotton trousers. For footwear I wore a brown pair of calf skin tassel loafers by Carmina Shoemaker and on this particularly warm day a panama hat was ideal.

Visiting Pitti Uomo for the first time was a truly amazing experience. I had the pleasure of connecting with many likeminded menswear enthusiasts as well as talented artisans and designers from all over the world. I am already excited to be back in Florence for Pitti Uomo 95 in January 2019.

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London Fashion Week Men’s SS19 outfits

mathias-le-fevre-ss19_london_fashion_week_mens_lfwm_wearing tailor made London bespoke suit in Solbiati cloth laird hatter Vacheron Constantin watch sera fine silk tie and Turnbull and asser braces.jpg

With London being one of the world’s fashion capitals the British Fashion Council hosted the now 7th season of London Fashion Week Men’s (LFWM). LFWM is here to showcase the work of the best British designers over 4 days with a packed schedule of catwalk shows, presentations and events.

Being passionated about menswear and style I joined in for another season to connect with likeminded creatives and soak in inspiration. In occasion of London Fashion Week Men’s I worked with a hand full of tailors and menswear brands to prepare 4 outfits.

Outfit 1:

 On day 1 of London Fashion Week Men’s I attended a preview of Kirk Originals’ new collection. They showcased their Spring Summer 19 Made in England Sunglasses in the Private White store in Mayfair. I wore a navy plain jacket in a Pure Wool Traveler fabric by Lanificio Cerruti, a white button down shirt by Eton Shirts, a brown knitted tie, a waistcoat in a cotton, linen & wool fabric by Solbiati and a light brown pair of linen & cotton trousers.

Outfit 2 :

Ph: leongsushan

Day 2 was the first official day of the fashion shows and I had a busy schedule of shows, events and presentations. I attended showcases by designers such as Oliver Spencer, Edward Crutchley and St. James London featuring New & Lingwood, John Smedley and many more.

Ph: @mohansinghphoto

With green being the colour of the season I went for a two-piece suit in a beautiful plain green wool, linen and silk fabric by Solbiati. I had the suit made by Tailor Made London’s bespoke service and it has details such as a wide notch lapel, an unconstructed shoulder and a high waisted pair of trousers with double reverse pleats. I paired the suit with a white high collar shirt by Eton Shirts, a navy paisley tie by Serà Fine Silk, navy paisley silk braces by Turnbull & Asser and brown suede penny loafers by Carmina Shoemaker. Completing my outfit, I wore a City Trilby hat in rabbit fur by Laird Hatters and a pair of Esso sunglasses in tortoise by Emon Eyewear.

Outfit 3:

Ph: @mohansinghphoto

Day 3 was slightly more relaxed and I spend it going to a few events and shows with my dear friend Alistair Guy. For my 3rd look I was wearing garments from the Saville Row based tailor Alexandra Wood Bespoke. A burgundy double breasted blazer in a breathable mesh woollen fabric by Holland and Sherry, which was ideal for a warm summer day like this. I paired the blazer with a white pin collar shirt by Eton Shirts, a navy cotton silk tie and a light brown pair of trousers in a wool, linen & silk fabric woven by Huddersfield. I finished off the look with a brown pair of tassel loafers by Carmina Shoemaker and a pair of Cran Classic sunglasses from The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear.

Outfit 4:

mathias le Fèvre attending London fashion week men's SS19 wearing jacket white Eton brown knit tie, light brown pocket square from Eton and a light brown pair of trousers in a linen cotton shirt emon eyewear sunglasses laird hatters Alfred Panama carmine shoemaker suede penny loafers
Ph: @styleandstylus

My last day of London Fashion Week Men’s was all about the browns. For my final outfit I opted for a plain light brown jacket in a soft blend of Ferla silk and linen. I paired it with a white shirt, a brown knit tie, a light brown pocket square and a light brown pair of trousers in a linen & cotton fabric. I completed this final look with a brown pair of suede penny loafers by Carmina Shoemaker and an Alfred Panama hat by Laird Hatters.

Ph: @styleandstylus

It has been a whirlwind and busy 4 days of London Fashion Week Men’s but it’s been a wonderful time, I met some very interesting people and I’m already looking forward to the next season. But first, I’m off to the menswear tradeshow Pitti Uomo in Florence and Milan Fashion Week Men’s…

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Our 5 star London Fashion Week Home – Hotel One Aldwych

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In the start of January I went to the now 11th season of London Fashion Week Men’s (LFWM). With a busy schedule of catwalk shows and events my partner and I decided to treat ourselves to the comfort of a stay at the Hotel, One Aldwych. Being just across the street from the British Fashion Councils’ (BFC) Show Space it was very convenient when needing a break or having to change outfit.

We spent the first evening in the hotel’s private lounge planning our week and made use of the small library looking through the numerous fashion books for style inspiration.

Every morning of our stay, we enjoyed a filling breakfast at the hotel’s restaurant.

For the first day of LFWM, I anchored my look around a classic navy suit. The suit is from Suit Supply and has a masculine cut with peak lapels and structured shoulders. It is a 2.5-button suit, carries a ticket pocket and a rather longer jacket. The cuffed high rise flat front trousers cuffs brings everything together for a stylishly tailored appeal. I layered it with a grey houndstooth waistcoat, a blue silk tie and a white shirt underneath. I chose a pair of brown single monk straps from Massimo Dutti and an automatic Moon Phase watch from Thomas Earnshaw.

As LFWM falls on our anniversary, we went to celebrate it with a three course dinner at the hotel’s Indigo Restaurant on our last night. Indigo is an award winning restaurant and is know for it’s innovative food. The Executive Chef, Dominic Teague, incorporates the finest seasonal ingredients carefully sourced from the British Isles into the Indigo menu, and it all happens to be entirely gluten and dairy-free.

After three very tasty dishes the amazing staff surprised us with an extra dessert and champagne in occasion of our anniversary. The restaurant experience was a wonderful way to end our stay and it will definitely not be our last visit to the One Aldwych London.

www.onealdwych.com

@onealdwychhotel

– Mathias le Fèvre

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Why the fit’ makes the perfect suit – London Fitting Rooms

london_gentleman_fitting_rooms_suit_tailor_pinstripe

“A suit is only as good as it’s tailoring”

When buying a ‘ready to wear’ suit, you should first choose your preferred style & cut, and then look at how it fits. Most suits are made to fit the most people possible, which is why you should go for the one suiting you the best. Keeping the attention on the shoulders and make sure that the seam ends right at the outside of yours.

I recently purchased two suits and took them to my tailor, London Fitting Rooms, to make sure that they would have the perfect fit. If the suit doesn’t compliment your body shape or has too much fabric the right tailor can alter it to ensure it fits you precisely. When it comes to suit alterations I believe that it’s the small detail that makes all the difference.

An extra styling detail I like adding to my suit trousers is turn-ups (cuffs). Turn-ups have the benefit of weighing down the bottom of the trousers, which is especially useful at keeping lightweight trousers looking neat. Today’s lighter and narrower trousers truly benefit from the added weight of turn-ups.

By focusing on quality and paying close attention to every detail London Fitting Rooms ensured that the end result became a suit that was tailored for me.

 

www.londonfittingrooms.com

@londonfittingrooms

– Mathias le Fèvre

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It’s the detail that makes the difference – Button Spirit

Mathias le Fèvre - Button Spirit london gentleman suit shirt blazer style

I have been very excited to share this new and very innovative accessory concept, that I was recently introduced to. Button Spirit creates these phenomenal Eclipse that are attached as button covers. They can be put on the front of the shirt as well as the cuff adding an extra detail and a hint of personality to your outfit.

The concept was born in Paris out of the desire to stand out in all discretion. With values of art, objects and fashion, Button Spirit came togeather. Creating a first collection consisting of 4 lines and 24 Eclipses they offer their pieces in exclusive models inspired by the world of art and fashion.

www.buttonspirit.com

@button_spirit

– Mathias le Fèvre

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The Mechanists – A passion for cars and true craftsmanship

the mechanist bracelet london gentleman style blogger mathias le fevre suit tie luxury

“Freedom is found when we let go of who we’re supposed to be and embrace who we really are.”

Cars are respected and admired as symbols of personal freedom, self-expression and most importantly self-empowerment.

I have always been passionate about good craftsmanship, and truly admire the details and finesse of putting together a motor vehicle. The Mechanists federates people with passion and addiction to all mechanical wonders. Together with British artisans they crafted one beautiful piece of jewelry to cherish the passion: The Steering Wheel Bracelet.

www.themechanists.com

@themechanists

– Mathias le Fèvre

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The Pocket Square – Geoff Stocker

geoff stocker pocket square acqua di parma perfume gq magazine prince of wales tie thomas earnshaw watch

“The pocket square for a man is like the bag for a woman, it should be never missing”

An accesorie with many names such as “pochette” or “handkerchief”, a common mistake is very often made matching your pocket square and tie, with identical patterns. When striving for elegance, balance is crucial. The key is to find the right match between shirt, jacket, tie and pocket square as well for the fabric and the pattern.

Geoff Stocker is striving to design each piece as an individual collectable and wearable artwork in the format of a pocket square. They are made of 100% satin silk in England with the addition of a classic hand rolled hem. Creating a sartorial essential to an effortless stylish appearance.

www.geoffstocker.com

@geoffstocker

– Mathias le Fèvre

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